Guides/CS2 aimbot settings that look legit

Settings guide · 7 min read

CS2 aimbot settings that look legit

The CS2 aimbot settings that read as a sharp human: real numbers for aim FOV, smoothing, bone selection and triggerbot delay.

What these settings actually change

Your CS2 aimbot settings do one job. They decide what you look like on the death cam of every player you drop, and to whoever pulls the demo afterwards. A tight aim FOV and a slow pull turn a snap into something that reads like a good flick. That matters, because far more Counter-Strike accounts go down after a stack of reports than after a scan.

What they don’t do is change whether a build is detected. That comes down to the build itself and whether it is current. We pull a product offline the moment a patch puts it at risk, and we publish the live state of every build so you can check before you load in.

The honest truth: no configuration makes a cheat safe. Settings only change how obvious you are to other players. Run a build that is currently marked Undetected, keep your habits boring, and treat everything below as damage limitation, not a shield.

Get your sensitivity stable first

A narrow aim FOV only helps if your crosshair is already close to the target when you press the key. If your sensitivity is unstable it never is. So you widen the FOV to compensate, and every correction starts looking like a magnet. Fix the mouse first.

  • Leave Windows acceleration off anyway. CS2 reads your mouse through raw input, so Enhance pointer precision cannot reach your aim in-game whatever you set it to. Untick it regardless, under Mouse settings, Additional mouse options, Pointer Options, and leave the pointer speed slider on the sixth notch of eleven. It keeps your desktop and every other game consistent with the muscle memory you are building here.
  • Work in eDPI, not DPI. eDPI is mouse DPI multiplied by in-game sensitivity, and most CS2 professionals sit between 600 and 1,000. Put the sensor on 400 or 800 and move the in-game slider until you land there. Valorant figures don’t transfer. Its scale is about three times coarser, so the eDPI of 250 you keep reading about is roughly the same hand speed as 800 here.
  • Know your 360. At 800 eDPI a full turn takes just under 52cm of pad, so one swipe across a 450mm mousepad spins you about 310°, just shy of a full circle. That is the arm-led range where micro-corrections stay repeatable. Elbow for the big turns, wrist for the last few pixels.
  • Then leave it alone. Changing sensitivity after a bad session is the most common way players stay bad. Your brain builds a spatial map out of repetition, so give it two or three weeks before you blame the number.

Crosshair placement does most of the work

This is what makes a small FOV feel generous. If your crosshair already sits at head height on the angle you are clearing, the aim has two or three degrees to travel and the correction is invisible. If it is down at the floor, it has to sweep. Sweeping is what gets clipped.

  • Stay at head height. Doors, crates, wall trim and light fittings are all built around player height. The barrels in banana on Inferno, the stack at Mirage A, the doorframes on every site: treat them as a rail and keep the crosshair running along it while you move.
  • Leave yourself a reaction pocket. Hold a small gap between the corner and your crosshair instead of hugging the edge, so you get a few milliseconds to register the model before you click.
  • Stop moving before you shoot. Counter-strafing (release A, tap D, fire on the frame you stop) is what makes the first bullet go where you point. No aim setting compensates for firing mid-slide.
  • Keep the crosshair static. A dynamic one expands as you move, burying the small corrections you need to see while you are tuning.

Aim FOV, smoothing and bone selection

Every menu labels these differently, but the CS2 aimbot settings that decide how you look come down to three ideas: how wide the aim engages, how fast it travels, where it stops. Aim FOV is a cone measured in degrees around your crosshair, and the aim engages only inside it. It has nothing to do with the viewmodel FOV in your video options.

  • Aim FOV radius. Between 2° and 3°. Wider and it starts grabbing players you were never looking at. Nothing on a death cam looks worse than that. Ares draws the border on screen, and its dynamic FOV holds the rifle window tight while opening up for the AWP.
  • Smoothing and aim speed. More smoothing, slower pull. You want the correction to finish in roughly the time your own flick would have taken. Ares calls it the smooth factor, Hyperion calls it aimbot speed, and Fecurity splits it into horizontal and vertical aim speed. The split matters: the vertical correction is the one that looks wrong on a peek.
  • Bone or hitbox priority. Pick one and stay on it. Head for the one-tap, chest or stomach if you would sooner bait armour. Ares offers head, neck, chest, stomach or closest bone, Fecurity exposes hitbox priority, Hyperion has a bone selector. Alternating mid-fight makes a jerk pattern nobody produces by hand.
  • Visibility check. On, always. It stops the aim engaging on anyone you have no shot at, so your crosshair never drifts towards a player behind a wall.
  • Target switch delay. Short, never zero. Without it the lock strobes between two players on a retake, and a 2v1 looks like a machine reassigning targets.
  • Aim key. Hold-to-aim on a thumb button, never always-on. It keeps the software out of the way while you are rotating, and that is when a stray pull stands out.

Triggerbot delay and recoil control

A triggerbot with no delay gives you away faster than anything else in the menu. It fires on the frame your crosshair crosses a model, quicker than any human reaction time, and it fires at models that only flicker past a doorway. Ares ships a suggested delay-first-shot value for that reason. Use it, and give it enough milliseconds to land inside a believable reaction window. Reacting to something appearing on screen takes most people around 200ms, and the sharpest players are not far under 150ms. Anything meaningfully quicker than that was never a reaction, and it reads that way on a demo.

Recoil control is a separate system and should be tuned separately. It counters the vertical climb on the AK and M4 sprays, and both Ares and Fecurity pair it with a no-spread option. Set it independently of the aim, and remember that a spray holding perfectly flat for thirty rounds is its own kind of tell.

A starting config

The CS2 aimbot settings below are a working baseline, not a finished answer. Copy them, play three or four games, then change one thing at a time. Tuning six values at once tells you nothing about which one was wrong.

  • Aim FOV radius: 2°. Widen to 3° only if you are missing pulls you should be getting.
  • Smoothing: high, around two-thirds of the slider. On a split control, keep vertical slower than horizontal.
  • Bone: head. Move to chest or stomach if you keep trading against armour.
  • Visibility check: on. No exceptions, in any build.
  • Target switch delay: short, but never zero.
  • Aim key: hold, on a mouse thumb button. Not toggled, not always-on.
  • Triggerbot: off for your first few sessions. When you enable it, set the first-shot delay before anything else.
  • Recoil control: on, tuned apart from the aim.
  • Underneath it all: eDPI 600 to 1,000, acceleration off, static crosshair at head height.

How much of that you can set depends on the build. Our three Counter-Strike 2 builds divide it cleanly. Hyperion is the deliberately simple one, with an aim key, a bone selector, one speed slider and a visibility check, and it is the easiest place to start if this is new to you. Ares is the complete build, with the FOV border, the smooth factor, the switch delay and the triggerbot; its setup doc walks the menu screen by screen. Fecurity is the one to take if you want the vertical pull slower than the horizontal. That is the softest a peek can look.

The habits that get people reported

Good CS2 aimbot settings buy you very little if the way you play gives it away. None of this costs you anything.

  • Miss sometimes. A player who never loses a duel draws more attention than an unusually high headshot percentage does.
  • Don’t prefire smokes and dead angles. That is an information tell, not an aim tell, and it is the one that ends up in somebody’s clip.
  • Don’t record or stream with it running. Fecurity’s untrusted mode keeps the overlay out of a capture, and that is all it does. It is a capture aid, not protection.
  • Ease off in one-sided games. A 13-2 with you at the top of the scoreboard is where reports come from. Nobody reviews a close match.
  • Keep it off the account you care about. A second account turns a ban into an inconvenience instead of a loss.

Before you load in

Two minutes of checks before each session. Open the status board and confirm the build is showing Undetected, not Updating. If it is down, forcing it is how people get caught. Run the game windowed or borderless on your primary monitor, with one overlay enabled instead of three.

If this is your first time running anything of the sort, start with the basics guide, because account choice and setup matter more than any slider. Then judge the config by how little you notice it. If you finish a match unsure which of those kills were entirely yours, it is tuned about right.

FAQ

What aim FOV should I use in CS2?
Start at 2 degrees and only open it up if the aim is failing to engage on shots you clearly had. The test for whether it is too wide is not a number: if the aim ever begins moving on somebody you had not spotted yourself, it is doing work your eyes should have been doing. As your crosshair placement improves you can keep shrinking it, because the aim has less and less distance to cover.
What eDPI should I use in CS2?
Somewhere between 600 and 1,000. If you have no reason to prefer a particular number, take 800 DPI with in-game sensitivity on 1.0 and stop thinking about it. Inside that band the lower end suits holding long angles, the upper end suits close repeeks and turning to clear behind you, but the gap between 700 and 900 matters far less than picking one and staying on it for a month.
Which of the three CS2 builds should I start on?
Hyperion, if you have not run a legit config before. It has no triggerbot and no movement tools, so there is very little in the menu that can make you look ridiculous. Move up to Ares when you want the FOV border, the switch delay and a triggerbot in one build, or to Fecurity if you want to slow the vertical pull independently of the horizontal.
Why did my aim get worse after I lowered smoothing?
Because you are fighting it now. A fast pull arrives before your own hand has finished moving, so you overshoot, drag back, and end up somewhere neither of you was aiming. Low smoothing only works if you hold your hand still the instant the key goes down, and under pressure almost nobody does. Put it back up and let the pull be the slow half of the movement.
I keep getting reported. What should I change first?
Nothing in the menu. Reports usually come from what you appeared to know rather than how you shot: firing through a smoke at somebody with no business being visible, holding an angle nobody plays, or sitting 20 kills clear at half time. Sort the information you are giving away and the scoreline first. If both are clean and it is still happening, you are simply too good for the lobby you are in.
How can I tell what my config looks like to everyone else?
Download your own demo and watch yourself back. From behind your own crosshair you are the worst possible judge, because you already know where you were about to look. The demo shows you what the people you killed saw: whether the crosshair arrived or jumped, and whether it ever moved before you did. Ten minutes of that is worth more than any recommended value, including the ones on this page.

Ready to play it safe? Pick your game and grab an undetected build.

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