Settings guide · 7 min read
CS2 aimbot settings that look legit
The CS2 aimbot settings that read as a sharp human: real numbers for aim FOV, smoothing, bone selection and triggerbot delay.
What these settings actually change
Your CS2 aimbot settings do one job. They decide what you look like on the death cam of every player you drop, and to whoever pulls the demo afterwards. A tight aim FOV and a slow pull turn a snap into something that reads like a good flick. That matters, because far more Counter-Strike accounts go down after a stack of reports than after a scan.
What they don’t do is change whether a build is detected. That comes down to the build itself and whether it is current. We pull a product offline the moment a patch puts it at risk, and we publish the live state of every build so you can check before you load in.
Get your sensitivity stable first
A narrow aim FOV only helps if your crosshair is already close to the target when you press the key. If your sensitivity is unstable it never is. So you widen the FOV to compensate, and every correction starts looking like a magnet. Fix the mouse first.
- Leave Windows acceleration off anyway. CS2 reads your mouse through raw input, so Enhance pointer precision cannot reach your aim in-game whatever you set it to. Untick it regardless, under Mouse settings, Additional mouse options, Pointer Options, and leave the pointer speed slider on the sixth notch of eleven. It keeps your desktop and every other game consistent with the muscle memory you are building here.
- Work in eDPI, not DPI. eDPI is mouse DPI multiplied by in-game sensitivity, and most CS2 professionals sit between 600 and 1,000. Put the sensor on 400 or 800 and move the in-game slider until you land there. Valorant figures don’t transfer. Its scale is about three times coarser, so the eDPI of 250 you keep reading about is roughly the same hand speed as 800 here.
- Know your 360. At 800 eDPI a full turn takes just under 52cm of pad, so one swipe across a 450mm mousepad spins you about 310°, just shy of a full circle. That is the arm-led range where micro-corrections stay repeatable. Elbow for the big turns, wrist for the last few pixels.
- Then leave it alone. Changing sensitivity after a bad session is the most common way players stay bad. Your brain builds a spatial map out of repetition, so give it two or three weeks before you blame the number.
Crosshair placement does most of the work
This is what makes a small FOV feel generous. If your crosshair already sits at head height on the angle you are clearing, the aim has two or three degrees to travel and the correction is invisible. If it is down at the floor, it has to sweep. Sweeping is what gets clipped.
- Stay at head height. Doors, crates, wall trim and light fittings are all built around player height. The barrels in banana on Inferno, the stack at Mirage A, the doorframes on every site: treat them as a rail and keep the crosshair running along it while you move.
- Leave yourself a reaction pocket. Hold a small gap between the corner and your crosshair instead of hugging the edge, so you get a few milliseconds to register the model before you click.
- Stop moving before you shoot. Counter-strafing (release A, tap D, fire on the frame you stop) is what makes the first bullet go where you point. No aim setting compensates for firing mid-slide.
- Keep the crosshair static. A dynamic one expands as you move, burying the small corrections you need to see while you are tuning.
Aim FOV, smoothing and bone selection
Every menu labels these differently, but the CS2 aimbot settings that decide how you look come down to three ideas: how wide the aim engages, how fast it travels, where it stops. Aim FOV is a cone measured in degrees around your crosshair, and the aim engages only inside it. It has nothing to do with the viewmodel FOV in your video options.
- Aim FOV radius. Between 2° and 3°. Wider and it starts grabbing players you were never looking at. Nothing on a death cam looks worse than that. Ares draws the border on screen, and its dynamic FOV holds the rifle window tight while opening up for the AWP.
- Smoothing and aim speed. More smoothing, slower pull. You want the correction to finish in roughly the time your own flick would have taken. Ares calls it the smooth factor, Hyperion calls it aimbot speed, and Fecurity splits it into horizontal and vertical aim speed. The split matters: the vertical correction is the one that looks wrong on a peek.
- Bone or hitbox priority. Pick one and stay on it. Head for the one-tap, chest or stomach if you would sooner bait armour. Ares offers head, neck, chest, stomach or closest bone, Fecurity exposes hitbox priority, Hyperion has a bone selector. Alternating mid-fight makes a jerk pattern nobody produces by hand.
- Visibility check. On, always. It stops the aim engaging on anyone you have no shot at, so your crosshair never drifts towards a player behind a wall.
- Target switch delay. Short, never zero. Without it the lock strobes between two players on a retake, and a 2v1 looks like a machine reassigning targets.
- Aim key. Hold-to-aim on a thumb button, never always-on. It keeps the software out of the way while you are rotating, and that is when a stray pull stands out.
Triggerbot delay and recoil control
A triggerbot with no delay gives you away faster than anything else in the menu. It fires on the frame your crosshair crosses a model, quicker than any human reaction time, and it fires at models that only flicker past a doorway. Ares ships a suggested delay-first-shot value for that reason. Use it, and give it enough milliseconds to land inside a believable reaction window. Reacting to something appearing on screen takes most people around 200ms, and the sharpest players are not far under 150ms. Anything meaningfully quicker than that was never a reaction, and it reads that way on a demo.
Recoil control is a separate system and should be tuned separately. It counters the vertical climb on the AK and M4 sprays, and both Ares and Fecurity pair it with a no-spread option. Set it independently of the aim, and remember that a spray holding perfectly flat for thirty rounds is its own kind of tell.
A starting config
The CS2 aimbot settings below are a working baseline, not a finished answer. Copy them, play three or four games, then change one thing at a time. Tuning six values at once tells you nothing about which one was wrong.
- Aim FOV radius: 2°. Widen to 3° only if you are missing pulls you should be getting.
- Smoothing: high, around two-thirds of the slider. On a split control, keep vertical slower than horizontal.
- Bone: head. Move to chest or stomach if you keep trading against armour.
- Visibility check: on. No exceptions, in any build.
- Target switch delay: short, but never zero.
- Aim key: hold, on a mouse thumb button. Not toggled, not always-on.
- Triggerbot: off for your first few sessions. When you enable it, set the first-shot delay before anything else.
- Recoil control: on, tuned apart from the aim.
- Underneath it all: eDPI 600 to 1,000, acceleration off, static crosshair at head height.
How much of that you can set depends on the build. Our three Counter-Strike 2 builds divide it cleanly. Hyperion is the deliberately simple one, with an aim key, a bone selector, one speed slider and a visibility check, and it is the easiest place to start if this is new to you. Ares is the complete build, with the FOV border, the smooth factor, the switch delay and the triggerbot; its setup doc walks the menu screen by screen. Fecurity is the one to take if you want the vertical pull slower than the horizontal. That is the softest a peek can look.
The habits that get people reported
Good CS2 aimbot settings buy you very little if the way you play gives it away. None of this costs you anything.
- Miss sometimes. A player who never loses a duel draws more attention than an unusually high headshot percentage does.
- Don’t prefire smokes and dead angles. That is an information tell, not an aim tell, and it is the one that ends up in somebody’s clip.
- Don’t record or stream with it running. Fecurity’s untrusted mode keeps the overlay out of a capture, and that is all it does. It is a capture aid, not protection.
- Ease off in one-sided games. A 13-2 with you at the top of the scoreboard is where reports come from. Nobody reviews a close match.
- Keep it off the account you care about. A second account turns a ban into an inconvenience instead of a loss.
Before you load in
Two minutes of checks before each session. Open the status board and confirm the build is showing Undetected, not Updating. If it is down, forcing it is how people get caught. Run the game windowed or borderless on your primary monitor, with one overlay enabled instead of three.
If this is your first time running anything of the sort, start with the basics guide, because account choice and setup matter more than any slider. Then judge the config by how little you notice it. If you finish a match unsure which of those kills were entirely yours, it is tuned about right.
FAQ
What aim FOV should I use in CS2?
What eDPI should I use in CS2?
Which of the three CS2 builds should I start on?
Why did my aim get worse after I lowered smoothing?
I keep getting reported. What should I change first?
How can I tell what my config looks like to everyone else?
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